Sunday, August 06, 2006

chiangrai 2005 - 06 Phu Chi Fa

[121205] at platform 1 in Chiangrai bus station, waiting for e bus that didn't turn out to be a bus:

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some days later we would find ourselves back here waiting for a real bus to Chiang Kham.

e kinda bus we were expecting, where people would load everything from canvas bags full of clothing to gunny sacks of cement/rice/maize into & onto e bus:

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but this (below left) showed up instead:

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longest 'bus' tickets ever (above right) - 10 X 10 baht sections that add up to e length of e cat's forearm (below):

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winding journey southwest to Thoeng, & then north from Pang Kha junction to Tap Tao. from there e van climbed along HWY 1093 up into e Phi Pan Nam mountain range that straddles e Thai-Lao border until we came to e first military checkpoint of this trip....a reminder that our seemingly innocuous itinerary went quite near places known for border incursions complete with occasional stray artillery fire 'airflown' in from Myanmar, plus drug & human trafficking. is this why we have to produce our passports before boarding domestic flights at Chiangrai International Airport? & does this need for documentation prevent stateless hilltribe people from travelling out of e province by air?

e driver dropped us right inside Rai Phu Fa:

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we were welcomed by Phi Daeng, who takes care of e day-to-day operations of this place while Khun J manages e bookings from Bangkok.

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photo by YK

e grounds are full of 'trumpet flowers' - same species that e cat came across in many places in Kyoto:

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photo by YK

accomodation is either in tents on bamboo platforms, or rooms that sleep up to 6 on a platform:

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photo by YK

500 baht/person/night for e rooms, inclusive of dinner & breakfast - think rates go up on cool season weekends & public holidays (King's birthday, Constitution Day) & 31 Dec, when people flock here to welcome e first sunrise of e year atop Phu Chi Fa.

mats for guests to lay on e floor of e corridor outside e rooms:

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photo by YK

which is just what YK & e cat did. sat down to read & enjoy e view, & spied someone riding a motorbike towards some reddish foliage at e turn in e road leading to Ban Pha Tang:

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photo by YK

decided to take a walk to that turning....

view of deforested slopes:

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there will always be burning especially during e dry season, but this is nothing compared to smoke from lowland post-harvest rice fields & land-clearing on plantation-scale....

looking back at Rai Phu Fa resort:

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e reddish foliage turned out to be this:

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Euphorbia pulcherrima poinsettia flowers:

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photo by YK

which reminded us of Homer Simpson:

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photo by YK

after all e trouble of getting here by 'bus', we discovered that Rai Phu Fa is accessible by helicopter....!

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heading back to Rai Phu Fa:

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grasses:

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silvery in e sunshine, tossed asunder in e wind:

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cool season up in e highlands of Thailand with an uncooperative gas-fired water heater & no heating, so we fell back into e 'Ban Apa routine' of bathing in e late afternoon while e sun was still up. sometimes it gets so cold here that plants will be covered by frost in e morning.

all rooms here sleep 6 pax, & e amount of food we were served for dinner seemed enough to feed 6:

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more food came after e photo was taken!

after dinner, we huddled with a fun bunch of Thais from Khon Kaen & Bangkok around a bonfire under e stars....they'd all been to university & could manage a bit of English, & so we got by in a mix of English & Thai =)

[ filed under: thewanderingstraycat + thai1 + chiangrai_2005 ]

Thursday, August 03, 2006

chiangrai 2005 - 05 Phu Chi Fa prelude

around Oct 2004, came across photos like this & this, showing e rising sun illuminating a vast sea of clouds punctuated by dark islands of ghostly peaks & ridges. e big fat cliff appears tilted at an angle towards e sky, hence e name of e place - ภูชี้ฟ้า Phu1 Chi2 Fa2 lit. 'mountain point sky'.

e cliff belongs (disputed?) to Thailand, & Laos lies hidden beneath e clouds. nice place to catch e sunrise =) but just where e heck was this place that had fallen off e map & wasn't mentioned in any guidebook?

Googling just about every possible romanisation of e name - Phu with(out) e 'h' & single/double 'u' + Chi with single/double 'i' & 'e' + Fa with(out) e 'h' + all 3 with(out) spacings in between = many results in English with uselessly vague descriptions (mostly plagiarised from e same source) & many many Thai websites with equally uselessly vague descriptions. & then paydirt....a PDF full of maps of e Golden Triangle for Budget Rent-A-Car customers, tourdoi.com (a Thai outdoor tour company), & Rai4 Phu1 Fa2 resort.

details could not be worked out in time to arrange a trip there after e 2004 Chiangrai expedition, & neither could company be found - most of e team members who were extending their stay were planning e usual shop-yourselves-silly-in-Bangkok post-expedition activities.

better luck came along in 2005 - YK, e expedition room mate turned traveling partner with loads of similar interests in nature & getting away from human pollution, & Khun J, e owner of Rai Phu Fa resort who finally responded to email enquiries in English....

food+accomodation+transport fell neatly into place after a highly amusing long distance phone call to Khun J, which involved switching from English ('five hundred baht') to a mix of Thai-accented English ('fai2 harn4 let2 bud3') & broken Thai =) she accepted our explanation that 'baeng2' Kaasiikorn (current incarnation of Thai Farmers' Bank) 'thii4 sing2 ka4 po1 mai4 mii1 saa2 kaa2' (has no branch in Singapore) & kindly waived e deposit required for our reservation, even though she didn't seem to remember our names.

Khun J seemed to recognise us by e simple fact that we were not-so-farang farangs from Singapore....'chan2 maa1 jak3 sing2 ka4 po1' was enough to trigger e 'ahh' of recognition =P PCF (as Phu Chi Fa came to be referred to) attracts almost 100% domestic tourists, save for e odd non-black-hair-brown-eyes sort of very-farang farang who roared by on motorbike while riding e Golden Triangle Loop.

& this is how YK & e cat came to buy e longest (literally) bus tickets of their lives....

[ filed under: thewanderingstraycat + chiangrai_2005 + thai1 ]