Monday, January 30, 2006

京都 2005 - 21 Nanzenji - Eikando

[221105] chatted with a Romanian uncle as we left e hostel together early in e morning. amazing how he gets around in Japan with limited English & zero knowledge of Japanese. silly cat has no problem with English + can read a few kanji characters, & can still end up buying milk coffee instead of milk tea by mistake. already 8 nights here in K's House, & still many many interesting people from around e world to meet! =)

e #206 City bus deposited e cat at e Higashiyama Niomon stop, where it walked along e canal towards Nanzenji, & ended up along e path that passes under e 水道 suidokaku (aqueduct), linking Keage subway station & Konchi-in:

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here there were plenty of schoolboys sprinting towards e high school in between Nanzenji & Eikando temples, obviously very late =P

first stop was e deserted 金地院 Konchi-in, a sub-temple of e big fat Nanzenji temple complex:

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probably so empty because a big fat section was under renovation, & e famous tsuru-kame (crane & tortoise) garden could only be glimpsed through gaps in e scaffolding *grrrrrr*

e akechi-mon gate opening into e Benten-ike pond garden (left):

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in & around 南禅寺 Nanzenji:

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maple + ginkgo, e killer combi of e cat's two favourite trees in full autumn glory:

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ginkgo:

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南禅院 Nanzen-in, another sub-temple:

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beautiful moss:

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a short walk from Nanzenji is 永観堂 Eikando aka. Zenrinji temple, one of e best places for maples in autumn:

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[1, 9, 10, 12] maples; [2, 11] ripples around e rocks & even e sticks supporting e overhanging branches of e pine trees; [3] aerial view of e Eikando grounds from e pagoda; [4] art on display in e 画仙堂 Gasendo; [6] bridge over e Hosyo pond

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simply brilliant & well worth e peak season (double e usual 500 yen!) admission fee =))

Friday, January 27, 2006

京都 2005 - 20 Kyodai + Gion

[211105] along Imadegawadori, e main street running westwards from Ginkakuji to Kyoto University (aka. 京大 Kyodai) & Demachiyanagi (at e confluence of e two rivers that form e Kamogawa):

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lunchtime, & e cat is looking for fish, & e bear is eyeing e badger & ducks hungrily. can't read Japanese so no idea if badger spaghetti & duck sandwich are on e menu.

if you are not sure whether you still have hair:

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nearing e Kyodai campus, bumped into a group of PRC students who were helping a friend move house, hence e furniture that they were trying to balance on their bicycles. across e street on e north side of Imadegawa-dori, spied a photo studio with Fujifilm logos - indication of a higher chance that it would have a xD card (used by only Fujifilm & Olympus digital cameras) reader. rate for burning photos was 525 yen per 400MB CDROM, about e average price in this city.

unfortunately e computer with e xD card reader choked on e 1GB xD card & collapsed after 45 whole minutes (& many puzzled looks from e staff & manager who checked on e progress every so often) of trying to transfer data from it. made e cat damn pai seh about bringing them this 'monster' that they couldn't tame....e staff even asked for e camera model & called up Olympus to find out if e problem was with their card reader/computer.

in e end they asked e cat to e back of e shop where they loaded e offending card onto another reader connected to what was probably e most powerful computer they had, confirmed through e language barrier that e cat wanted everything burnt on CD, & told it to come back at 17:00PM. & to apologise for having to make e cat wait, for not having a powerful-enough computer, for not being able to meet a customer's needs promptly, for not being perfect....they pressed 3 packets of tissue paper with e Fujifilm logo & cute-sy picture of 3 kittens & 3 doggies into e cat's paws, insisting with many deep bows that e cat accept them before it could leave. pai seh si....

suddenly, with e faithful Olympus bereft of any memory card, e cat was at a loss. & this explains why it has no photos of its visit to e Kyodai main campus & e university's history museum in their Clock Tower Centennial Hall, but only short notes copied from e exhibits on e university's rather interesting & tumultuous history, some reproduced in 'longhand' here:

recreation of lodgings of Econs student in 1930: 'many entered Econs faculty out of admiration for Kawakami Hajime who was studying Marxism....students in those days frequently read books on Literature & Philosophy that had no direct relation to their field specialisation....'

1913-14:
沢柳事件 Sawayanagi Incident (think this University President quit his post?)
1928:
河上事件 Kawakami Incident (expelled for subversion?)

'in e 1910s & 1920s, it [e university] also developed a strained relationship with e state concerning e issue of procurement & protection of university autonomy....'

'students during wartime....'

'student revolt....President Okuda Azuma calling for end to blockade of e Student Affairs Bureau & clock tower in 1969....1969 burned[sic] e main gate....entrance exams had to be off-campus....clash with riot police at Hyakumanben crossing....late 1960s - student revolts at universities across Japan'

1994: published self-evaluation 'Verifying e Academic Tradition of Freedom'


one who can confidently acknowledge/confront e past will be equally as comfortable dealing with e uncertainties of e future? somehow e cat thinks that Nantah's relatively short history can compete with Kyodai's, if only it could be documented & exhibited in e same way without stepping on any political toes ;) why is freedom so often equated with subversion over here?

more notes from e exhibits, for e cat's otaku-ish friends who actually have their own geek code:

manuscript of Yukawa Hideki's first article on meson theory (1934) 'On e Interaction of Elementary Particles I' - graduation thesis presented to Faculty of Science in 大正 Taisho period (1917, 1924)

'postwar - admit women....last diploma certificate issued in name of Kyoto Imperial University in 1947, thereafter became Kyoto University....'

1869 vol 1 no. 1 copy of e very first issue of
Nature journal: 'Nature! we are surrounded by & embraced by her; powerless to separate ourselves from her....we live in her midst & know her not....we constantly act upon her, & yet have no power over her.'

1637
Discours de la methode pour bien conduire sa raison by Descartes

1823 vol 1 no. 1 copy of e very first issue of
Lancet

1665
Philosophical Transactions of e Royal Society of London....'giving some account of e present undertakings, studies & labours of e Ingenious in many considerable parts of e world'

this cat admires & has much respect for e thirst for knowledge =)

explored e university co-op in e basement of e Centennial building for a peek at how similar/different it is from e one in e university-that-almost-refused-to-let-e-cat-graduate-from. Kyodai's version has a pharmacy, an incredible array of large recycling bins for various types of trash (even requiring you to separate caps from PET bottles), a business suit rental service (for job interviews) & notice boards full of job lobangs & info on discounted/concession concert/museum/etc tickets. & matcha pudding in e konbini section *satisfied burp*

through e ginkgo tree-lined streets of e main campus back to Imadegawa-dori & e photo studio to pick up e memory cards & CDROMs:

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e incredibly helpful & very professional Korakudo 光楽堂 at 京都市左京区北白川西町82 (Kyoto-shi Sakyo-ku Kita-Shirakawa Nishi-cho 82)

& then e cat was off to Gion from e Kita-Shirakawa bus stop right outside Korakudo, where it discovered a very nice matcha cream puff 'bun' in e LAWSON konbini Gion outlet, & wandered into stores selling elaborate kimono accessories....

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too-tiny-to-be-worn wooden clogs....

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too-pretty-to-be-eaten wagashi sweets....

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& a little textile art exhibition by Matsumoto Takehiro in e Kyoto Craft Center, a place full of pretty Japanese craft items on display & for sale.

tested out a hyaku yen (100 yen) kaiten sushi restaurant at e southwest corner of e Sanjo-Kawaramachi intersection - e quality is good (wouldn't survive in Japan if it wasn't?), items like ikura (salmon roe) sushi were just 100 yen/plate (2 pieces), & e amount of rice that comes with each piece of sushi is much less than what you get in Singapore (i.e. more liao4 less rice).

across e intersection was another kaiten sushi outlet that seems to specialise in some sort of unagi sushi, with a cute conveyor belt display at e door:

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to be tested on another day =)

Monday, January 23, 2006

京都 2005 - 19 Ginkakuji - Daimonjiyama

[211105] 10 minutes before opening time, & e first tour group (of PRCs) was already pushing against e doors at e entrance to 銀閣寺 Ginkakuji temple, ready to charge in e instant they were unlocked - or ram it down & barge in if they weren't opened by 08:30AM sharp....

& in they rushed, pushing & shoving their way past e ticket office. & e cat decided to temporarily lose its ability to read & comprehend e kanji characters 表参道 on e signs, & walk through e grounds of Ginkakuji in e opposite (counterclockwise) direction starting from e back of e 'Silver Pavilion'. & so it wandered through in peace & quiet, until both tourists & cat reached e halfway mark along e 表参道 ;)

early in e morning, Ginkakuji was still hiding in e shadows of e Higashiyama mountains - not very good lighting for photos. e cat had planned to come here later in e day - after climbing Daimonjiyama - but couldn't find e starting point of e trail up e mountain.

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[1, 2, 5-7, 9] e 'silver pavilion' of Ginkakuji that never got its coat of silver; [2, 3, 6-8] e ginshadan raked gravel formation that reminds e cat of a big fat giant soon kueh; [4] e kogetsudai (moon reflecting?) truncated cone

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[1] samples of e mosses grown in e temple garden; [2, 8] kogetsudai; [3, 4] ginshadan; [5, 7] e beautiful autumn colours; [6] e quiet elegance of Ginkakuji, a real contrast to Kinkakuji; [9] aerial view of Ginkakuji & Yoshida hill

had better luck finding e starting point of e Daimonjiyama climb after asking one of e Ginkakuji staff. apparently e cat had mistaken a fork leading to e Ginkakuji staff carpark & maintenance facilities for e fork mentioned in LP's 'Hiking in Japan' guidebook =P

to help fellow sotongs find their way to e starting point:

Daimonjiyama route - left fork leads to e Korean high school in Kyoto....

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if you're around Ginkakuji-michi before 08:00AM on a schoolday you can follow e trail of Korean high school students to get here.

right leads to Daimonjiyama:

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map of e trail:

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e daimonji:

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there are 6 of such kanji characters 'carved' onto e slopes on 6 of e mountains in north Kyoto - firewood is laid out in e shape of e characters in e clearings & set alight on e night of 16 August for e 大文字五山送り火 Daimonji Gozan Okuribi festival, to guide spirits on their way back to e netherworld.

e big fat red banner mentioned in LP's 'Hiking in Japan':

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e path enters e forest proper after e tiny bridge with metal railings on e right (above) & gets a little steep....

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before reaching this bunch of jizo statues at a fork:

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taking e left [L] & passing under e pulley system used to haul firewood up e mountain [R]....

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& a few long steep flights of stairs later, e left end of e 横 heng2 (horizontal stroke) of e 大 'dai' in 大文字 daimonji is reached (below left):

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撇 pie3 (above right), 捺 na4 (below left), & e intersection of all 3 strokes (below right):

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shrine at e intersection:

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e whole point of climbing all e way up here:

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e entire Kyoto at your feet!

(stitched together lousily - no tripod - from 6 frames, hence e 'whirlpool' effect in e larger version)

e individual frames:

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on super clear days one can supposedly see as far as Osaka (somewhere behind e clouds/fog/smog on e left above)

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5 of e 6 characters on 5 of e 6 mountain slopes:

左大文字 hidari daimonji on Daihokusan [L], somewhere above Kinkakuji, & e boat-shaped 船形 funagata daimonji on Nishigamo Funayama [R]....

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why there are two 'dai' characters on two different mountains? anyone knows?

妙法 myoho daimonji - 妙 myo [L] & 法 ho [R] on Matsugasaki Nishiyama....

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e 鳥居形 toriigata on Senoji-san in Saga couldn't be seen from here, but e cat would hunt it down later in this trip!

how much firewood is used: http://www.2kyoto.net/eng/matsuri-daimon.html

more views:

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just as e cat was about to start climbing down, e place was invaded by kindergarten kids on a school outing:

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wonderful thing was how they yelled ganbatte at their slower friends & ran back to try & pull them up e last bit to e top =)

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they started laying out picnic mats:

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yesh, e cat kena Hello Kitty-ed here *grrrr*

& posing for class photos....

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....before raising their arms & screaming BANZAAAAAAAIIIII down e mountainside =P kids have super powerful lungs.

e steep way down:

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flaming red maples....

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....& yellow gingko in someone's garden along e path leading from Ginkakuji to e start of e hike:

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cat love autumn colours =) living a dream come true to see all these - happiiiiieeeeeee =)))

along Ginkakuji-michi:

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e signs on e left are advertising 八ツ橋 yatsuhashi (lit. 8 bridges?), e yummy sweet that Kyoto is famous for. unfortunately they do not last long - only bought a small box of black sesame flavoured ones for parents on e very morning e cat left Kyoto. apart from e more traditional matcha, chestnut, sweet potato & black sesame flavours, there are strawberry & banana+chocolate versions too.

e Ginkakuji end of Tetsugakunomichi, e famous 'Path of Philosophy':

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Monday, January 16, 2006

京都 2005 - 18 Miho museum 02

[201105] more Miho:

Miho in autumn light....

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e main exhibition at e time of e cat's visit

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many come here to learn - e cat was far from e only one making notes in e galleries. there were plenty of Japanese (& some PRC) visitors quizzing docents, guides & museum staff on e exhibits, writing on notepads & holding quiet discussions. there were English translations for all exhibits, with words like 'internecine' & 'contrapposto' that were lost on e cat, & videos in several languages documenting e architecture, design & building process of e museum.

mosaic piece on e floor, south wing:

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e subterranean B1F entrance:

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in e valley beneath e bridge:

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are e surrounding trees wondering what has happened to their companion who has suddenly gone bald?

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sato-imo with sweet miso side dish - wonderful kitsune udon lunch at e museum restaurant =)

e journey back to Ishiyama, along mountain roads so narrow that e bus had to keep pulling aside to let oncoming vehicles inch past, & to allow other (faster) vehicles to overtake, & through rice fields:

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& along e Seta-gawa....

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....e only river that flows out of Biwa-ko, e largest lake in Japan:

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another of those cute-sy construction works sign in Ishiyama:

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no-smoking sign in JR Ishiyama station - click for larger version to read e words:

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[300606 update] Japan Tobacco Inc.'s gallery of more such 'smokers' manners' signs - interesting =P

a short train ride from Ishiyama back into e madness of 'momiji weekend' Kyoto. most of Japan was converging on Kyoto to catch e fall colours at their peak over this (& e following) weekend + e 23rd Nov Labour Thanksgiving public holiday.

Kyoto station was packed e night before, & people were pleading for rooms at e receptions of K's House & many other hostels/hotels in e city. e Kyoto Tourist Information Center was plastered with notices bearing e hard truth - 'NO HOTEL VACANCIES' - & e 3F living room area in K's House was curtained off & rented out to save a few desperate souls from having to spend e night in 4'C weather in e streets. on its way to Ishiyama this morning, e cat came across plenty of people with their luggage in e basement levels of Kyoto station, one of e sheltered & warmer public spaces to sit/sleep out a chilly autumn night.

change of room mates again back at K's House, with e 3 Taiwanese replaced by a Japanese from Miyazaki in Kyushu, an American from Minnesota, & an Australian from Melbourne. e Japanese comes to Kyoto about once a month to meet her 'teacher' with whom she 'studies stones' - not gemology nor geology but something more along e line of 'healing stones' - & a few days later she'd be heading to Sonobe to 'meditate in e forest' with friends. e American has worked in Guam before, claims that she can differentiate between Japanese, Korean & other Asian ladies based on e type of bikinis they wear, & told us that her hometown has e second largest concentration of Laotians in USA. already 28, but her parents are worried about her travelling alone in Japan!

she surprised us by complaining about how off-putting she found 6 of her countrymen, who were pleading for & then demanding a room at e reception outside - even offering to pay a higher price to get hold of a room already reserved by someone else....why on earth did they travel to Kyoto in peak season without a reservation? asking us about e image that Americans have in our respective countries, she said she was disgusted with how many Americans behave in foreign lands, insisting on having their own way, & that others change to suit them rather than they trying to accommodate others....

after many phone calls, e 6 Americans were placed at e Westin, with room rates ranging from 11 to 60 times (or more than 340 times, if considering e most luxurious suite) that of a 2500 yen dorm bed in K's House....much to e amusement + amazement of many K's House hostellites, considering that they could have just hopped onto one of e frequent trains for a half-hour ride to Osaka for less than 1000 yen & settled down into one of e excess cheap hotel rooms there for about e same price as K's House....or rented a KTV room for e night (a solution that e cat's colleague & many drunk businessmen have resorted to in Tokyo) =P

Saturday, January 14, 2006

京都 2005 - 17 Miho museum 01

[201105] Miho Museum

e use of glass as a 'permeable' boundary that defines yet juxtaposes 'inside' & 'outside'....

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where people seem to be absorbed into a virtual dimension between e two....

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what they call e 'dream door'....

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that leads to e main piece of art not mentioned in e list of exhibits....

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....e bell tower (by I.M. Pei) & Meishushama hall (by e guy who designed e twin towers of New York City's WTC) buried in e distant Misono valley, framed by an old pine tree & windows of e atrium at e main entrance....

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e headquarters of e 神慈秀明会 Shinji Shumeikai spiritual organisation that built this museum to house e Shumei Family Art Collection....

[a photo showing e relative positions of e Miho Museum (left) & e headquarters (foreground)]

reflection or imagination?

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....e clouds & bell tower behind e ridge separating e valleys, on e trees surrounding e museum

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....e corridor leading to e north wing

structure:

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[1, 3] north wing; [2, 8] e metal 'starfish' that support e roof structure; [4] staircase; [5, 7, 10] main entrance; [6] skylight; [9] e cavernous B1F entrance for barrier-free access

museum:

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[1] entrance plaza at west end of bridge; [2, 3, 8] north wing rock garden; [4, 5] 'dream' door at main entrance; [6] bus bay at reception pavilion; [7] a modern take on traditional stone lanterns; [9] view from north wing; [10] north wing; [11] atrium at main entrance

京都 2005 - 16 journey to Miho

[201105] destination: Momodani, Shigaraki-cho, Koga-gun, Shiga Prefecture

at many points in time, we arrive at crossroads....

Shiokoji-Karasuma intersection in front of Kyoto station building:

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....as we travel through life....

Kyoto station platform zero (there is no platform one):

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....Toyama-Osaka Thunderbird limited express - nothing to do with Mozilla

Kyoto station platform two - Biwako line for Kusatsu & Maibara:

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stand-up noodle bar on platform two....

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eastwards out of Kyoto towards Ishiyama....

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....e path diverges into two parallel worlds....

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....whichever is taken....

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....we know not what lies ahead....

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....leaving behind e comfort of light....

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....into e darkness of e unknown....

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....e proverbial light at e end of e tunnel....

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....which reveals another world....

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Miho

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....& as we look back & reflect....

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....'that is where we came from'....

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....how far we have come....

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....e link with a distant past....

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wonder if this is what it feels like to journey through a wormhole (e Physics definition)

《桃花源記》 陶淵明(南北朝)

晉太原中,武陵人,捕魚為業,緣溪行,忘路之遠近。忽逢 桃花林,夾岸數百步,中無雜樹,芳草鮮美,落英繽紛,漁 人甚異之﹔復前行,欲窮其林。林盡水源,便得一山,山有 良田美池桑竹之屬,阡陌交通,雞犬相聞。其中往來種作, 男女衣著,悉如外人﹔黃發垂髫,并怡然自樂。見漁人,乃 大驚,問所從來,具答之,便要還家,設洒殺雞作食,村中 聞有此人,咸來問訊。自云先世避秦時亂,率妻子邑人,來 此絕境,不復出焉﹔遂與外人間隔。問今是何世,乃不知有 漢,無論魏、晉。此人一一為具言所聞,皆嘆惋。余人各復 延至其家,皆出洒食。停數日辭去,此中人語云:“不足為 外人道也!”既出,得其船,便扶向路,處處志之。及郡下, 詣太守說此。太守即遣人隨其往,尋向所志,遂迷不復得路 南陽劉子驥,高士也,聞之,欣然規往,未果,尋病終。后 遂無問津者。

e inspiration for e design of e Miho Museum came from this piece by e poet Tao Yuanming (365-427). a rough translation from somewhere:

'During the Taiyuan era of the Jin dynasty (376-397) a fisherman of Wuling while rowing his boat up a stream lost his way. He saw peach blossoms along the river bank, with fallen petals of many colors. He continued along the stream and entered a place of strange vistas, with mulberry trees, hemp plants and a small village with men and women living harmoniously. They struggled (with each other) to come and ask how he'd got there. They said they were people of the Qin dynasty who had come here to flee the disorders. They did not know there had been a Han dynasty, not to mention the Wei or Jin. Finally one day they saw him off and he returned home. Later he looked again for this place, but could not find it.'

hence e long (about an hour by Teisan bus from JR Ishiyama station) journey along winding roads past rivers through rice fields & mountains, e path lined with cherry blossom trees, leading to e tunnel, opening out onto e bridge that crosses a valley, & finally e entrance of e museum proper, isolated in e mountains of Shigaraki. brilliant =)

Tuesday, January 10, 2006

京都 2005 - 15 Yama-no-be-no-michi special: CAT edition!

[191105] what is a countryside without plenty of fat, friendly cats? ;)

cats love Japanese gardens....

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appreciating e sunshine in e 375-year-old garden of Chogakuji temple's 旧地蔵院....in a strategically chosen spot to prevent visitors from sitting on e verandah ;)

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more of e friends that e little straycat met along e way:

[3] e Siamese tomcat that followed e little straycat, until they both crossed into e territory of [4] e black & white cat kooning in e vegetable patch, which [5] woke up & came over for [6] a friendly greeting, but was nudged away by [7] a chocolate brown cat policing [8] e invisible boundary between their territories. [9] 2 snoozing cats that woke up to [10] eat from a rice cooker pot. [11] another Chogakuji temple cat, & its [12] colleague manning e ticket counter at e entrance....

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京都 2005 - 14 Yama-no-be-no-michi

[191105] a 13 km hike from Tenri to 三輪 Miwa through e Nara countryside with fields, orchards, shrines, ponds, temples, kofun, traditional houses & plenty of friendly cats =)

at e eastern end of Tenri, e cat walked alongside students on their morning run to e start of e hike at 石上神宮 Iwagami-jingu, a Shinto shrine:

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two of e several ponds along e 山の辺の道 Yama-no-be-no-michi, useful landmarks for determining one's position on e map:

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hanging out of e reach of hungry rabbits:

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houses along e route:

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big fat ripe persimmons of autumn....

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harvested & hanging out to dry....

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kofun, e keyhole-shaped burial mounds of ancient 4th-7th century Japanese emperors:

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at ground level they look like little tree-covered hills standing out from e surrounding farmland, with a moat around their perimeter. e Yama-no-be-no-michi passes by e kofun of 景行天皇 Emperor Keiko & 崇神天皇
Emperor Sujin. pictures from an interpretative sign:

inside e stone chamber within....

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aerial view....

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more Yama-no-be-no-michi:

[2] e path through e country side, [3] gourds drying in e sun, [4] aloe vera & chillies (cat poison!) in vegetable gardens, [5] harvested & threshed rice, [6] jizo statues, [7] e doggie that kooned while 2 cats ate up its food, [8] decorative cabbage, [10] e part of e trail that passes under HWY 25, [11] traditional wooden houses & [12] more rabbit food....

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[1] different flavours of Qoo (there are vending machines in e middle of e countryside....), [2] waiting to be bear-napped by ancient SPS fogies, [3] rows & rows of greens, [4] a quaint waterwheel, [5] casks of sake at 大神神社 Omiwa-jinja, [6] building a new traditional wooden house, [7] eggplants for sale, & [8] yuzu or mikan (can't tell e difference from afar) orchard....

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[1] onions hanging from e eaves, [2] no doggie poo, [3] another of e beautiful ponds, [6] rest stop where e cat had lunch, [7] kiwis for sale, [8] straycat nosing around for dinner at JR Miwa station, [10-11] gaijin are so frightening they make good scarecrows ;)

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[1] froggies at 玄賓庵 Genpi-an, [3] an altar in 長岳寺 Chogakuji, [4] wildflowers, [5] jizo with baby blue bib(most have red bibs), [6] Miwa somen noodles for sale, [9] JR Miwa station cat, [11] Omiwa-jinja, [12] drink up the bottle to find the difference?, [14] shichi-go-san @ Omiwa-jinja, & [15] chrysanthemums for sale near a graveyard....

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met a nice guy who was covering e trail on bike & taking photos with his cameraphone. from time to time he would wheel his bike along to slow down & wait for e cat to catch up. he tried to talk to e cat, only to realise that it can speak as much (or rather, little) Japanese as he can speak English *lol* at Genpi-an, by e time e cat figured out that e big fat box obstructing e entrance was for visitors to throw in a donation in before entering, he'd already fished out his wallet to throw a coin in on e cat's behalf, calling out in his best stilted English, 'Prease! Come! In!' =)

got kinda lost trying to work out a way to JR Miwa station at e end of e hike - e station is on e west side of e railway tracks but just couldn't seem to find a path to cross over to that side. Miwa station is one of those super tiny countryside ones where e obasan running e station kiosk selling newspapers, sweets, drinks & snacks doubles up as e ticket collector.

retracing e hike through e beautiful countryside by train from Miwa back to Tenri & Kyoto:

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back in K's House, 3 new loud Taiwanese room mates who thought that e cat was Japanese (until they saw it scrawling English in its notebook), & had a shock when they discovered that e 50% Hokkien cat could understand some of e Minnan dialect & all of e Mandarin that they were babbling in ;) too bad for them, they had exhausted all e of 2 languages that they knew....which was good for e cat cos they had to adjourn to e living area in order to gossip in private, allowing e cat to koon in peace & quiet *evil grin*

e giant suitcases that e Taiwanese brought [right], & e cat's barang in e black duffel bag + empty backpack [left]:

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e room was so tiny & e suitcases so huge, only one girl could open her suitcase at any one time (while others sat on their bunks to free up space on e floor), so they had to take turns =P

Sunday, January 08, 2006

京都 2005 - 13 Tenri

[191105] to get to e start of e Yama-no-be-no-michi, a 13 km hike through e Nara countryside, e cat had to find its way to & through Tenri, a small city south of Nara.

06:54AM Kintetsu train from Kyoto to 平端 Hirahata via 大和西大寺 Yamatosaidaiji was full of high school kids with giant schoolbags. wondered why most of e school girls were carrying what looked like pencil cases in their hands....until they started flipping open their minimum half-A4 size mirrors to do their eyelash curler + eyeliner + 'fake double eyelid' sticky tape + eyeshadow + eyebrow pencil + mascara + lip liner/lipstick + blusher morning routine (moisturiser + make-up base + concealer + foundation + hair part is all done before leaving home). e cat watches people curl their eyelashes - with morbid fascination....e metal contraption they use looks like something for plucking out eyeballs whole for boiling in soup or something.

a change of train at Hirahata to end up at 天理 Tenri at ~08:00AM....

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....why is this place so dead? e few souls around were either in school uniform, or black happi coats with e big fat kanji 天理教 emblazoned in white on e back, & all hurrying in e same direction along e Tenri Hondo covered shopping arcade (centre, above), where they all vanished into e blinding sunlight at e eastern end. & e arcade was totally silent & empty - elsewhere in Japan, shops would be opening for business by now, filled with e busy chatter of owners & assistants stacking out wares, arranging goods, greeting one another, sweeping, cleaning & splashing water.

at e eastern end of e arcade:

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a big temple hall in e middle of a huge expanse of gravel [above left], where everyone in identical black 天理教 happi coats stopped to bow in front of e temple hall [above right] whenever they walked past it.

facing e main temple hall were rows & rows of neatly parked bicycles....

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neatly lined up humans & neatly arranged ladles at e 'fountain' for devotees to wash their hands & rinse their mouths....

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neatly arranged pairs & pairs & pairs of shoes....

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everything in this place seems so fastidiously neatened, meticulously placed, & carefully aligned....not a hair out of place nor a piece of litter in sight, not even a stray cigarette butt. in fact there didn't seem to be anyone smoking here - an anomaly in Japan, where all temples & shrines are decorated with 禁煙 (smoking prohibited) signs.

curious about e great number of school shoes (there were lots & lots more neatly stacked in rows & rows of shelves, apart from those in e photo above) outside e main temple hall, e cat ventured up e steps & in for a peek - into a vast darkened hall packed with students & teachers kneeling in neat rows surrounding a central space where a few men dressed like priests seemed to be leading some sort of prayer service....around a big fat pillar....!

kneeling down at e back, e cat watched while what seemed like at least a thousand people performed some singsong chanting accompanied by repetitive hand gestures - strangely overwhelming yet soothing, & very surreal. this was so unlike any Buddhist temple, with everyone so focused on e pillar (why a pillar?), & no sign of any Buddha statue nor incense. & so e cat went outside hoping to find some answers. just as it left e hall:

e trickle....

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....before e flood:

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this was taken at e south entrance where e cat had entered into e section with high school students - at e same time hundreds of primary school kids were swarming out of e east section, & probably countless others from e other 2 sections. it happened so suddenly, & e human wave swept by & disappeared just as quickly, no dawdling, no hanging around waiting for friends. in a flash, all e neatly parked bicycles had vanished.

outside, e cat was invited into an office where e staff got hold of an English speaker on e phone, who explained that this was a daily affair for Tenri students - morning prayers before starting e school day - & something unique to Tenri, where ~90% of e population are followers of Tenrikyo, which has devotees worldwide (including Singapore).

everywhere you looked in Tenri, buildings with e same design & colours....

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....that serve as dormitories, a hospital, schools, a university, a museum, a library, etc. e cat walked past one that was marked as 'cafeteria no. 6' (or something like that) - just how big fat is this place....!

Friday, January 06, 2006

want to go:




Thailand (obvious)
Laos
Japan (obvious)
Indonesia
Malaysia
New Zealand
Bhutan (maybe)
China (Kanas valley in Xinjiang)
Chile (Torres del Paine National Park)
Scotland (for a proper visit home, instead of e 1996 mad rush)

created using http://www.world66.com/myworld66....who says it must be for visited countries only? ;)

pawprints left behind at....




create your own visited country map

Sunday, January 01, 2006

京都 2005 - 12 Garden of Fine Art - Botanical Gardens

[181105] took e 北8 Kyoto City bus from Kenkunjinja-mae stop outside Daitokuji. slotted e one day bus pass into e #4 slot of e fare machine beside e driver, & *BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP*....driver had to retrieve e pass from e machine that refused to regurgitate it.

all along e cat had been taking buses with red or blue signs where e bus pass has to be fed into e fare machine, which will then spit it out. but buses like e 北8 with purple signs that go beyond e one day bus pass zone have fare machines that will choke to death on bus passes. & so you simply show your pass to e driver, who will tell you e additional fare to pay (or none, if you are still within e zone)....

seems that e cat will kena at least one si beh pai seh public transport blooper on every trip to Japan *grin*

Kitayama-dori, an 'atas' neighbourhood with e main road lined with boutiques, cafes, apartments & yellow ginkgo trees:

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inhale + exhale = how to fit into e clothes sold here?

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Ando Tadao's Garden of Fine Art, a dream come true =)) have been wanting to come here for many suns & moons liao. here are porcelain panel reproductions of famous paintings displayed within an amazingly compact space:

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[L-R, top to bottom]:

  • Seurat's A Sunday Afternoon
  • looking in from e ground level entrance
  • scroll 1 of Choju giga, almost 23 metres in length (twice e original size)
  • looking back from e ground level exit
  • as you walk in from e entrance, Michaelangelo's Last Judgement comes into sight
  • e bridge in e Song dynasty painting 清明上河图 (Ascending e River at Qing Ming festival)
  • Kyoto Prefectural University campus behind e Garden of Fine Art
  • da Vinci's Last Supper
  • looking out towards e exit
  • info panel on e Last Judgement
  • looking up from e second level - amazing how diagonal walkways break e monotony & 'enlarge' a small rectangular space
  • on e lowest level of e Garden


once watched a NOVA documentary on how a China bridge historian & his team including USA collaborators attempted to build a 'rainbow' arch bridge similar to e one depicted in 清明上河图, with only this painting (of which only reproductions exist today) & a few surviving diagrams for reference. didn't catch e name of e painting at that time, but once e cat saw this mosaic panel, it recognised e bridge instantly =)) & only from e Garden of Fine Art pamphlet & Google did e cat find out how significant this painting is! totally mind-blowing....

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[L-R, top to bottom]:

  • e entrance along Kitayama-dori
  • e best way to display Monet's Water Lilies: Morning - totally submerged
  • cat from scroll 2 of Choju giga
  • second level, where you look directly across to e part between heaven & hell in e Last Judgement
  • Last Judgement
  • blends in so perfectly that e cat missed e sign & almost couldn't find e place
  • outside, inside & outside: e buildings west of e Garden, a window on a wall of e Garden, & trees of e Botanical Gardens east of e Garden of Fine Art
  • second level again
  • looking up from e bottom level at people gazing at e Last Supper
  • falcon from scroll 2 of Choju giga - yet another reminder of e 'family'
  • art students with their lecturer staring at hell
  • helping to pull souls down into hell while posing for photos


on to 京都府立植物園 e Kyoto Prefectural Botanical Gardens (combined admission with Garden of Fine Art = 250 yen - a steal), where people were sketching by e lotus pond:

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this guy's hat blends in perfectly with e big fat drooping lotus leaves (above right - spot him!) =P

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walked along e west bank of e Kamogawa to e bus stop to catch a bus to Kawaramachi-Sanjo:

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another happy shopping experience, starting with e JEUGIA CD store that e cat chanced upon along e Sanjo covered shopping arcade, which had a few Mizoguchi Hajime CDs =) listening to e actual CD isn't allowed, but you can scan e barcode & listen to 45 second samples of each track (same as what is available online) at e listening stations. & e staff called up their Shijo branch & got them to set aside their only remaining copy of Espace II for me! down along e Shinkyogoku shopping arcade towards Shijo, picking up dinner from e ampm konbini & e cosmetic stuff from e pharmacy that had placed a special order on behalf of e cat.

e cat got a bit lost along Shijo-dori as e JEUGIA store was far beyond e area covered by it's detailed map of Shijo. instructions from e Sanjo store staff were to look out for e Daimaru depato....but there are two Daimarus along this road! sought help from a parking warden, & in e process probably saved a few vehicles from kena-ing summons ;)

found e store, but it was on e 2nd floor accessible only by stairs....more torture for e troublesome knee. but made it up e stairs well before closing time =P & just as e cat was about to leave after getting e CD, it was stopped by e staff who wanted to put all e cat's barang (4 plastic bags of CDs, dinner, & omiyage stuff) into a large carrier bag for its convenience =)) so much for Tower & HMV....JEUGIA wins in Kyoto!

experienced e magic of 'sumimasen' in e Friday night crowd on board e #205 bus back to K's House hostel....everyone was squashed on e packed bus, yet trying their best not to squash one another's belongings (that is how considerate they can be even while they are squashing your face!). & by magic no one was unable to get off at their stop....with a soft 'sumimasen' e Red Sea would part ever so slightly (not sure how they managed it - everyone holding their breath simultaneously?), enabling whoever pressed e bell to squeeze his/her way from e darkest depths of e bus right to e front to pay e fare, alight, & expand back into his/her original size & shape.

京都 2005 - 11 Ryoanji - Kinkakuji - Daitokuji

[181105] temple temple day....

unsure of e bus timings & how long it takes to change buses....ended up at Ryoanji temple at 07:30AM, when e only thing to do was to watch e guys from Asahi & some other drink company empty coins from e vending machines & restock them with stuff like minestrone soup....

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....& some mysterious 'waist-wave' thingy:

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indication of Ryoanji's presence on e international tourist map: 2 separate toilet blocks, with one entire block just for 'Western style' cubicles. at 07:55AM e ticket booth opened, & 4 early birds + 1 early cat had Ryoanji's kare sansui (dry landscape) garden all to themselves:

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15 stones in 5 groups, arranged such that one always remains hidden from view when seen from any point along e verandah....in e cat's 5-year old AR1722 (e cat took CFMs that prepared it for travelling =P) lecture notes, e plan of e garden is drawn from an aerial view in order to show every rock.

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e difference between arriving at e 08:00AM opening time [below left], half an hour after opening time [below right], & 09:00AM when big fat tour groups pour in en masse & loudspeakers start blaring Japanese commentary about e garden - don't bother to take photos, run!

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everyone zooms in on e famous dry garden & forgets about e rest of Ryoanji, so escape from e noise & crowds is still possible in other charming bits of e temple grounds:

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on to 金閣寺 Kinkakuji, which was packed to e gills less than 15 minutes after opening time. helps to be a small cat when squeezing to e front to see this:

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no wonder e pond is called 鏡湖池 Kyoko-chi (lit. mirror lake pond). damn heng that e cat changed its plans to come here on e 15th or 16th - think it was closed off for a while on one of those days, when President Bush came by for a visit.

Japanese have this obsession with throwing coins at everything:

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at almost every temple that e cat visited, staff would be raking up coins with nets from e bottom of ponds & around statues like these.

more maples:

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不動堂 Fudo-do, dedicated to e God of Fire:

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where you can buy your fortune from a machine....

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....& conveniently trash it if it turns out to be bad

on e way to 大徳寺 Daitokuji:

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big fat Daitokuji has 20+ subtemples & felt like a micromouse maze built for humans:

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red rectangle = 'you are here'
blue arrow = 大仙院 Daisen-in (is e Baby here?)
green arrow = 高桐院 Koto-in

e cat took quite some time just to get to e red rectangle as there didn't seem to be any distinct entrance to e temple complex. it chanced upon e path leading to e red rectangle when it wandered through e carpark (big fat empty space at middle right).

for blondes?

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entrance to Daisen-in tei-en, another famous kare sansui garden:

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no photography allowed within....though e nice pamphlet with pictures of e garden sponsored by Kikkoman was some sort of consolation =P

here e cat was struck by e (lack of) size of e garden - just narrow rectangular strips of spaces surrounding a hall. & amazed by how e grainy black & white photos in e lecture readings sprang to life - e 枯山水 'dry waterfall', 'river flowing under e bridge', 'treasure ship', 'turtle swimming against e currents', etc - all without a drop of water. & how mere gravel & rock could create such an illusion of space in an area so confined, allowing e mind to transcend e boundaries of e perimeter walls that shut out e rest of e world =)

Koto-in, another subtemple famous for its maples, which were still mostly green:

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to get out of this big fat maze, e cat just kept walking south until it hit Kitaoji-dori. nice noren spotted on e way out of e Daitokuji complex:

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京都 2005 - 10 Takao - Kiyotaki - Tenryuji

[171105] second day in e mountains of northwest Kyoto. standing space only on e first Shuzan-bound West JR bus for e hour-long ride to Takao.

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2'C weather = bus windows opaque with frost = e cat alighted one stop too early at Makino-o. had to figure out bearings & walk towards Togano-o bus stop to get to Kozanji temple. which turned out to be a disappointment. e first morning rays broke through gaps in e trees only to struggle through e thick mist, casting eerie shadows upon e rather desolate grounds. & most of e maples were still green =|

frozen cat with frozen paws + frozen nose backtracked towards Makino-o & had better luck at Saimyoji temple:

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brilliant!! this is precisely what e cat has come all e way to Kyoto to see =)) *happy happy*

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many of e temples & gardens that e cat visited on this trip serve green tea + a wagashi sweet or two for a fee:

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was admiring e reflection of a bright yellow maple on e surface of some 'pond' [L], when a cleaner emptied out a whole pail of dirty water into it [R]:

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beautiful things don't last eh? but neither do e ripples, which will vanish with time, & have their place taken by e beautiful reflection again. shot a series of images, & e one on e left was taken after e one on e right.

only a handful of visitors (mostly diehard shutterbugs with tripods & big fat zoom lenses), so everyone could admire & savour nature's beauty in peace & quiet....

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....unlike e madness at Jingoji temple:

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many Japanese here had 5 legs, & it has nothing to do with eating too much takoyaki (grilled octopus + wheat flour balls). they were armed with SLRs, all trying to '找 (find) angle'. as soon as you stopped & so much as raised your camera, someone(s) would pop up next to you, tilt his head to check out what you were photographing & then (almost) pierce your feet with his tripod as he set up his gear right where you are standing to try & compose e same shot....something easier said than done for those who are taller than e cat & have to break their backs bending down to see things literally from e cat's point of view =P

long hard climb all e way up to e entrance of Jingoji (below left), & even more climbing within e temple grounds:

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right knee giving trouble again on this trip (as it has since secondary school days), & by this point it couldn't be bent anymore. had to walk & climb up & down really slowly with a really weird gait. must be e little bit of jumping done (not supposed to!) over e past few weeks during wushu =| lucky that Atago-san, e not-so-tall (8-900+m) tallest mountain planned for this trip, was cleared with no problem e day before.

but e maples were brilliant =)

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to e point that nobody seemed to notice e temple buildings, which received far less attention than even e doggie:

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stepping out of e Jingoji entrance is like stepping into a painting, with even more beautiful maples outside:

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think those within e temple are e center of attraction simply because they are blood red....e golden ones on e outside & around e open-air restaurants along e steps leading up to e entrance are just as spectacular:

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how not to want to have lunch here, with tiny maple leaves landing on your table & in your soup each time e breeze lures them away from e branches above? =P

here you collect a number on placing your order at e counter & wait at a table of your choice for your number to be yelled out, & then attract e waiter's attention before he goes hoarse & he'll bring e food over to you. simple, except that everything is in Japanese....

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an English-speaking staff kindly told e cat what #94 sounds like in Japanese, & so it was listening out for someone yelling kyuju-yon (however it is spelt)....but e waiter ended up shouting 'tempura udon' instead *lol*

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780 yen (e most expensive catfood of e trip) later, *satisfied burp* =))

little hike from Takao to Kiyotaki following e Kiyotaki-gawa downstream, past dining platforms on e river banks & stands of Kitayama sugi trees:

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great escape from e maddening crowds & roaring tour coaches at Takao:

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back in Kiyotaki, at e starting point of yesterday's Atago-san climb:

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by Kyoto bus through e human + vehicular traffic jam in Arashiyama to Tenryuji temple:

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[L-R, top to bottom]:

  • cute plant seen around homes in Kiyotaki & Arashiyama neighbourhoods
  • 心洗 - where people collect water trickling out of a bamboo pipe in a ladle & splash it on e tall rock
  • main garden of Tenryuji which appears in travel magazines & guidebooks
  • super pek chek frog
  • another view of e stunningly beautiful main garden, with e mountains behind
  • daruma
  • path leading down from highest point of e garden that has a wonderful view of Hiei-zan, Daimonjiyama, e Higashiyama mountains & Kyoto city
  • cloud shadows dancing across e Kitayama mountains
  • wonder how many photos she appeared in while walking through e temple grounds


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at e main garden, some Japanese guy came forward & offered to take photos of e cat - 'can I take shutter?' (why do Japanese use e word 'shutter' instead of 'photo'?) - with its camera. unlikely that he'd run away with e simple Olympus since he was weighed down by camera equipment worth far more than e cat's total travel expenses, so why not? even waited for e right moment when both e clouds & crowds thinned for a while, & so e cat ended up with 2 photos of itself in good lighting =)

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e peak on e left is supposedly Hiei-zan, & Daimonjiyama is somewhere in e middle. spent quite a bit of time at e highest point of e garden enjoying this view, partly because a point was reached where it hurt too much to walk. worse still, one sole of e 7-year old track shoes was coming off....this faithful pair has taken e cat along trails in 12+ national parks & nature reserves of Tasmania, Victoria, Yosemite, King's Canyon & Sequoia, Mt Lassen, Mt Shasta, Mt Kinabalu & Nikko, how can it give up now when there are still 10 more days of trails + Daimonjiyama + Konpira-san to go =|

outside Tenryuji, e cat drifted along with e crowds until it chanced upon a cute owl made from kimono crepe silk:

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& then more & more of its friends:

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& e cat followed e trail of cute stuff into e Chirimen Craft Museum of Arashiyama:

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chirimen zaiku is e cat's favourite Japanese traditional craft =)) ever since it came across tsurushibina aka. hanging hina dolls. it even has 2 books on how to make them. couldn't take photos within e museum & shop, so for an idea of what was on display (& sale), see this site.

at e Keifuku Arashiyama station, a reminder to get dinner:

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long (because of e shoe & knee) walk to e JR Arashiyama station for e train ride back to Kyoto station, passing by e post office (where e Hello Kitty postcards to e 'family' were mailed out) & little shops selling fresh vegetables, barbecued fish, groceries & washi paper stationery.

on e way back to K's House hostel from Kyoto station:

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preying mantis + big fat whale doing what else but eating fish....

came back to find 2 new Japanese room mates, one working in architecture, e other a history student with super power legs who covered e entire Higashiyama + Karasuma shopping area + back to Higashiyama again at night for e temple light-ups, all on foot.

10 hot gyoza from e Kyoto Station Isetan B2 food hall + laundry 'sponsored' by a hostel mate who dropped in too many 100 yen coins + 1 tube of superglue from e Lawson konbini (for e falling-apart shoe) later, things were looking much better for e cat =)